The Hood Down Circular Walk From Totnes

Of all the walks that begin in Totnes, the Hood Down circular walk from Totnes might be the one locals quietly keep for themselves. It picks up the River Dart at Steamer Quay, follows the towpath downstream past reedbeds and rowing club pontoons, then climbs into the woodland above Sharpham before dropping into Ashprington for a pint at the Durant Arms. You finish back in town along old farm lanes, having seen the river from three completely different heights.

Expect around 7 miles in total, with one decent pull up through the woods and another gentle climb on the return. Underfoot you get a mix of firm towpath, woodland singletrack with roots, a few short field-edge sections and a couple of quiet country lanes. Allow three to four hours at a sociable pace, or longer if you stop for lunch.

Where to start and where to park

Park in Totnes at the long-stay car park on Steamer Quay (postcode TQ9 5AL). It’s free for the first hour and reasonable beyond that, with public toilets and a small cafe kiosk in summer. From the quay, walk downstream with the river on your left. You’ll pass the open green of Vire Island and then the long, level riverside path that takes you out past the boatyard.

If you’re arriving by train, Totnes station is a 10-minute walk through the town centre to Steamer Quay, so you can absolutely treat this as a car-free day from anywhere on the Plymouth to Exeter line.

Along the Dart to Sharpham woods

The first mile and a half hugs the river. It’s flat, shaded by ash and sycamore, and popular with dog walkers in the early morning. Watch for kingfishers darting low over the water near the old hards, and for the occasional grey seal that follows the tide up from Dartmouth. Around the point known locally as Fleet Mill Creek, the path bends right and lifts away from the river into a kissing gate.

From here you start climbing. It’s not steep, but it’s steady, and the woods around Hood Down close in quickly. In May the floor turns blue with bluebells and wild garlic; in autumn the beeches throw down a copper carpet. The path is well worn but can hold water after wet weeks, so waterproof boots earn their keep. You’ll cross two stiles before emerging onto the high lane above Sharpham, where the views open across the river towards Stoke Gabriel.

Ashprington and the Durant Arms

The route now drops down a lane towards Ashprington, one of those tucked-away Devon villages where time runs at half speed. The Durant Arms sits in the middle of the village, a 19th century pub with low ceilings, decent ales and a kitchen that knows how to do a proper pie. It’s a natural halfway stop, roughly four miles in.

If the pub isn’t open or you’d rather press on, the village shop opposite the church usually has cold drinks and the church porch makes a good bench seat. There are no public toilets between Totnes and the pub, so plan accordingly with younger walkers.

The return via lanes and field paths

From Ashprington the path climbs gently past the cricket field and joins a quiet lane that runs along the high ground back towards Totnes. You’re rewarded with long views across rolling South Hams farmland, hedgerows thick with foxgloves in June and sloe in autumn. A waymarked footpath leaves the lane on the left after about half a mile and drops you through two large fields, often grazed by cattle, so keep dogs on a short lead here.

The final descent brings you back into Totnes via Bridgetown, crossing the river by the road bridge and finishing back where you started at Steamer Quay. If your timing is right, you can wash down the last mile with a coffee at one of the riverside cafes opposite.

Practical notes for the Hood Down circular walk from Totnes

Dogs are welcome on the whole route but expect livestock in summer. There are at least four stiles, two of them with dog gates. Buggies will not get round the full loop; the woodland climb is the sticking point. Pack water (no taps on the route), and consider an OS Explorer OL20 map even though most junctions are signed for the Dart Valley Trail or local footpaths. The riverside section can flood on the biggest spring tides, so check before setting off after heavy rain.

Best time of year to go

The Hood Down circular walk from Totnes is a year-round route, but it earns extra credit in two windows. The first is late April into May, when the woods above the river fill with bluebells, wild garlic and early purple orchids, and the lanes back from Ashprington are heavy with cow parsley. The second is October, when the beech and oak in the wood turn properly copper and the river holds the low light beautifully on a clear afternoon.

Winter has its own merits, particularly on a cold, bright weekday when the leaves are down and you can see the river through the trees from the high lane. The downside is wet ground; the woodland climb and one or two field corners can stay slippery for days after rain. Avoid the busy summer weekends if you can; the towpath section is popular with families and cyclists, and the Durant Arms gets booked out for lunch.

If you’ve enjoyed this one, the Hood Down circular walk from Totnes pairs beautifully with our wider walks around Totnes guide, and the village of Ashprington is worth a slower visit in its own right.