The Cott Inn at Dartington: One of Devon’s Oldest Inns

If the Cott Inn is not actually the second oldest pub in Britain, as it modestly claims, it is certainly close enough that the difference does not really matter. The cob-and-stone longhouse dates from the early 14th century, sits low under one of the longest thatched roofs in the country, and looks almost exactly as you imagine a medieval Devon inn ought to look. Two miles from Totnes, in the village of Dartington, the Cott has been feeding travellers on the old packhorse road for somewhere north of seven hundred years.

The history

The pub takes its name from Johannes Cott, a Flemish merchant who set up here in the wool-and-tin trade. Records suggest the inn was already serving travellers in 1320, with the original walls built of stone rubble and probably some cob, rendered and lime-washed white in the local style. The thatch has been re-laid many times and is currently maintained as one of the longest single thatched roofs in Britain, low enough that taller guests duck slightly as they come through the porch.

Inside, the bar is exactly what you would hope: flagstone floors, blackened beams, a huge open fire and a row of small dining rooms with deep windows and benches. None of it feels staged, because none of it is. The Cott has been refurbished and re-thatched over centuries without ever losing its bones.

The food

The kitchen has built a strong local reputation, with recognition from The Daily Telegraph (it was named among the 30 best pubs in Britain a few years ago) and a steady following for its Sunday lunches. The menu is traditional but carefully done. Recent plates include truffle and parmesan skin-on fries with aioli, a Ruby Red Dartington beef brisket burger with brioche bun and red cabbage slaw, a coq au cidre using free-range Devon chicken, dauphinoise potato and a cider, mushroom and pancetta sauce, and a vegan chocolate ganache with hazelnut praline and kirsch cherries.

Most of the produce is local: meats from Dartington and the surrounding farms, fish landed at Brixham, vegetables from the kitchen garden and nearby organic growers. Tuesday is fish-and-chips night, with two suppers for around £30. Price bracket: ££.

Sunday roasts

The Sunday lunch is what most regulars come back for. A choice of meats, properly crisp roast potatoes, Yorkshire puddings the size of small soup bowls, and seasonal vegetables that taste like vegetables. Sundays fill quickly, particularly in autumn and winter; book at least a week ahead.

Opening hours and booking

The Cott is open Monday to Saturday from noon to 2.30pm and from 6pm to 9.30pm, and on Sundays from noon to 5pm and 6pm to 9pm. Tables can be booked through the website or by phone, and walk-ins are usually welcome at the bar. There is a sizeable garden behind the building, a few picnic benches at the front, and a small terrace ideal for an aperitif before dinner.

Practical info

Parking is generous, with a free car park to the side of the pub. The village of Dartington is signposted off the A384 between Totnes and Buckfastleigh, and the inn is signposted again as you turn off through the lanes. The Dartington Hall estate, the Cider Press Centre and Almond Thief’s old base are all within a couple of miles. The Cott also has a handful of boutique bedrooms upstairs and across the courtyard, dressed in soft colours and country fabrics, which make this a comfortable base for a weekend in the South Hams.

Who it suits

Anyone who loves an old English pub, walkers looping back from Dartington Hall, couples on a slow weekend, families with hungry teenagers. The Cott is dog-friendly in the bar areas and on the terrace, and the rooms are dog-friendly by arrangement. The building is not perfectly level (those are 14th century floors), so guests with mobility issues should ask in advance about access.

For a meal in a building older than most countries, with food that does the place justice rather than trading on the postcode, the Cott Inn is a quietly easy choice.

Combining with Dartington Hall

The pub sits a five-minute drive from the Dartington Hall estate, which combines a medieval great hall, formal gardens, the new Daily Knead bakery (the successor to the Almond Thief), the Ways With Words literature festival in summer and a network of woodland walks through the estate. A common rhythm is a morning at Dartington Hall, a long lunch at the Cott, and a slow afternoon walk back along the lanes towards Totnes. The Hall itself is open to visitors year round, with the gardens charging a small admission.

The rooms

The Cott’s bedrooms have been refreshed in recent years and now sit firmly in the boutique camp, with soft colours, country fabrics, decent bathrooms and good linen. Some rooms are in the main inn and have the lower ceilings and uneven floors you would expect; others are in a converted courtyard building behind, which suits anyone wanting a more level layout. Breakfast is served in the dining room and uses local produce, with a thoughtful vegetarian and vegan option alongside the traditional Devon plate.