Autumn Walks and Pub Lunches in the Dart Valley
South Devon does autumn quietly. The bracken on the hills turns rust-orange, the beech woods around Dartington glow against the river, and the pubs stop being holiday-busy and become themselves again, with a fire lit by 4pm and a slate of local ales worth lingering over.
This is the season to walk the Dart Valley properly. Here are five walks and the pubs that pair with them, all within easy reach of Totnes.
The Totnes to Sharpham loop
The classic. Pick up the Dart Valley Trail at Steamer Quay and follow it south along the river. The path is firm, gently undulating, and traces the western bank past Sharpham House (Grade I Palladian villa, set above its own vineyard). About two and a half miles in, you can climb up to the vineyard and cheese dairy, or carry on round to Ashprington.
Pub at the end: The Durant Arms in Ashprington. Slate floors, good autumn menus that lean into local game and root vegetables, and a fire in the snug. Allow about three hours including a slow lunch.
Stoke Gabriel and the creek
One of the prettiest South Hams villages, set on a tidal creek of the Dart. Park at the village car park, walk along the creek to the millpool, and pick up the footpath that climbs through the orchards above the river. The views back over the Dart are at their best in October when the bracken turns.
Pub at the end: The Church House Inn, right opposite the ancient yew. Sunday roasts are the obvious choice in autumn, although the regular menu is reliable any day. Book ahead from October half-term onwards.
Dartington estate woods
If you want a shorter walk with proper colour, the Dartington Estate woodland trails are unbeatable in autumn. Park or arrive on foot at Dartington Hall, pick up the gardens map, and follow the riverside path north towards Staverton through ancient beech and oak. Allow an hour for a circuit, longer if you want to take in the gardens themselves.
Pub at the end: The Sea Trout Inn at Staverton if you have time to extend the walk a mile further along the river. Otherwise the White Hart at Dartington for a fireside lunch in the courtyard.
Berry Pomeroy castle and woods
Two miles east of Totnes, Berry Pomeroy is one of the most atmospheric castle ruins in Devon. The combe below the castle holds onto its leaves longer than open ground, so the colour here can run into November. English Heritage manage the site, the surrounding woods are a tangle of paths, and there is rarely anyone about midweek in autumn.
Pub at the end: The Castle Inn at Berry Pomeroy village. Genuinely local, often quiet on weekdays, with a coal fire and a proper pie menu.
The high path to Ashprington and back via the lanes
For walkers who like a bit more distance, this one runs to about seven miles. Leave Totnes via Bourton Lane, climb to the high path above the Dart, drop down to Ashprington for lunch, and come back via the riverside trail through Sharpham. The high path gives you the long autumn views over the patchwork of fields towards the estuary; the river path gives you the woods on the way home.
Pub at the end: same Durant Arms, but earn it twice.
What to take with you
Boots, not trainers
Autumn rain finds the parts of the Dart Valley Trail that pool and stay wet. Even on dry weeks, expect mud in the dips. Proper walking boots and gaiters if you have them.
Layers
October temperatures in South Devon hover around 12 to 14 degrees Celsius by day, colder under the trees, warmer in the sun on the river. A thin merino layer, a fleece and a waterproof shell will see you through.
An OS map or app
The Dart Valley Trail is mostly waymarked but autumn leaves can hide the paint on stiles and posts. OS Explorer OL20 (South Devon) covers all of these routes.
A note on Sunday lunches
From October half-term onwards, pub Sunday lunches in the Dart Valley book up by Friday morning. The Durant Arms, the Church House at Stoke Gabriel, the Sea Trout at Staverton and the Maltsters at Tuckenhay all take bookings and all reliably do an excellent roast. If you are walking, ring on Wednesday or Thursday and ask for a table at 2pm rather than 1pm. You will be less rushed, and so will the kitchen.
The simple autumn shape
A four-day October trip works beautifully on a walk-pub-walk-pub rhythm. Two longer walks (Sharpham and the high path), two shorter ones (Dartington woods and Berry Pomeroy), four different pubs, and an evening in front of a fire in town between them. You do not need a packed itinerary. The valley supplies the rest.