Visiting Totnes in Spring: What’s Open, What’s Blooming, What’s On

Spring is when Totnes wakes up properly. The river smells of cold water and wild garlic, the woods behind the town turn green almost overnight, and the cafés on Fore Street start putting tables back out on the pavement. It is one of the loveliest times to visit if you want the town at its most relaxed, before the high-summer crowds arrive.

Here is what is open, what is in flower and what is worth turning up for between March and late May.

The gardens to see in spring

If you only do one thing on a spring visit, walk through the Dartington Hall Gardens. The estate is a mile out of town and the 26-acre gardens are open every day. Magnolias start opening in March, the bluebells follow in late April, and the ancient yew at the heart of the garden looks magnificent against the new green of the lime walk. Tickets are valid all day, so you can wander out for lunch at the White Hart and come back for an afternoon loop.

For something wilder, follow the Dart Valley Trail south from Totnes towards Sharpham. The riverside path is firm underfoot, runs for about two and a half miles, and in spring it is lined with primroses, celandines and the first wild garlic. The Sharpham vineyard and cheese dairy sit at the end of the walk, both signs that the warm weather is coming.

Closer to town, the Longmarsh path along the Dart fills with cow parsley by May and is a good gentle option if you have prams or older legs in the group.

What’s open and back in season

Most of the town runs year-round, but a few things only really get going in spring:

• South Devon Railway. The heritage steam line between Totnes Riverside and Buckfastleigh runs a fuller timetable from late March, often with several departures a day during school holidays. The footbridge across the Dart links it directly to the main-line station.
• Dartmouth river boats. Scheduled sailings between Totnes and Dartmouth (nine miles downriver) start again in spring, tidal timings permitting. The boat down, train back combination is a great half-day out once the weather warms up.
• Outdoor swimming. The wild swimmers are back in the river by April. Staverton and Stoke Gabriel are the favourite spots, although the Dart is still cold enough to take your breath away.
• The Civic Hall artisan market. Runs on the second Tuesday of each month from April to November, with twenty-plus local makers indoors.

Festivals and events to plan around

Spring builds gently towards summer. Things to keep an eye on:

Easter weekend

The Friday and Saturday markets in the Market Square run as usual (9am to 4pm), and the South Devon Railway lays on extra Easter services with steam trains running back and forth all day. Buckfast Abbey, just up the line, makes an easy linked visit and Easter is one of its busier moments in the church calendar.

Late May bank holidays

The town is at its prettiest. Tables spill out of the riverside pubs, the Steam Packet at the bottom of town gets busy at lunchtimes, and the Pavilions and Drum at Dartington start adding outdoor sessions to their programmes.

Looking ahead

The Totnes Midsummer Festival straddles late June, so a late-spring visit is the moment to book ahead if you want a room in town for solstice weekend. Independent guesthouses and the Dartington Estate’s own rooms tend to fill first.

A relaxed spring weekend in Totnes

If you have a Saturday and Sunday, this is a gentle way to spend them.

Saturday morning, start in the Market Square. Pick up coffee from one of the High Street cafés and walk the length of Fore Street up to the castle. The Norman keep gives you the best view of the spring greenery on the surrounding hills. Drop back down to the river for lunch.

Saturday afternoon, take the footpath out to Dartington. Cross the river via the new pedestrian bridge near the railway station, follow signs through the meadows, and aim to be at the gardens by 2pm. Allow a couple of hours among the magnolias and the Henry Moore sculpture, then have an early dinner at the White Hart.

Sunday, head south along the Dart Valley Trail to Sharpham. Pack a swimsuit if the weather is kind, time the walk so you arrive at the cheese dairy when it is open, and come back to Totnes in time for a late lunch on the river.

What to pack

Spring in South Devon is warmer than most of the country, but it is still spring. A waterproof jacket, proper walking shoes for muddy stretches of the Dart Valley Trail, and an extra layer for evenings on the river will cover most days. If you are coming for the gardens, a small pair of binoculars is worth its space for the birdlife along the river.

Totnes in spring rewards the slow visitor. The light is soft, the food is local, and the town has not yet shifted into its busy summer rhythm.